Ocean wave height and spectrum Measurements Made by Earth Observation Satellites

CEOS EO HANDBOOK – MEASUREMENTS

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Ocean wave height and spectrum

Sea state and wind speed govern air-sea fluxes of momentum, heat, water vapour and gas transfer. The state of the sea and surface pressure are two features of the weather that are important to commercial use of the sea (e.g. ship routing, warnings of hazards to shipping, marine construction, off-shore drilling installations and fisheries). Information on surge height at the coast is key to the protection of life and property in coastal habitats.

Detailed Measurement	Description*	Instruments	Timeline
Dominant wave direction	One feature of the ocean wave spectrum. It is the direction of the most energetic wave in the spectrum - Physical unit: [ degrees ] - Accuracy unit: [ degrees ].	2 instruments
Dominant wave period	One feature of the ocean wave spectrum. It is the period of the most energetic wave in the spectrum - Physical unit: [ s ] - Accuracy unit: [ s ].	2 instruments
Sea State Wavelength		0 instruments
Significant wave height Link:	Average amplitude of the highest 30 of 100 waves - Physical unit: [ m ] - Accuracy unit: [ m ].	15 instruments
Wave directional energy frequency spectrum	2-D parameter colloquially referred to as “wave spectrum”. Describes the wave energy travelling in each direction and frequency band (e.g., 24 distinct azimuth sectors each 15° wide, and 25 frequency bands) - Physical unit: [ m2×Hz-1×rad-1 ] - Accuracy unit: [ m2×Hz-1×rad-1 ].	1 instrument

* Description adapted from WMO.